Follow Vanuatu Immigration into Vanuatu: Lowinio, the first Melanesian village I visited. Vanuatu belongs to one of the three major island groups of Melanesia in the Pacific. The name "Melanesia" originates from Greek, meaning "islands of black people." Although Vanuatu has a population of only over 200,000, it possesses 115 languages, and its tribal traditions are rich and colorful. From island to island and region to region, songs, dances, facial patterns, artistic styles, celebratory rituals, chieftain succession, and power structures all differ significantly.
At the entrance of the village, the chief's wife came out to welcome us, wearing a grass skirt and holding a garland, with a solemn and dignified demeanor. The village is small, with only a few households. The activity spaces for men and women are separated; the open area upon entering is the women's territory, where they handle various household chores, while the men are active deeper in the woods. A few thatched sheds on the ground serve as "bedrooms," "kitchens," and storage rooms, where people sleep on the ground in simple huts.
The women cover themselves only with a grass skirt, and even folded banana leaves can become a "bodice"—a world far removed from industrialized society. A woman walked over to demonstrate how to process coconuts, while the oldest grandmother in the tribe began preparing "delicacies" for the guests. We sat on the ground, with huge banana leaves spread out before us. The preparation method is somewhat similar to our zongzi; the grandmother took various tubers unique to Vanuatu—cassava, sweet potatoes, taro, and bananas—some cut into small pieces, others ground into a paste, mixed with coconut milk, and wrapped in banana leaves along with local cabbage. It was then folded into a flat shape and placed on hot stones on the ground until fully cooked. Harry told me that this traditional Vanuatu food is called "Laplap," which is found in many places. In addition to tubers, it can also be stuffed with small pieces of pork, beef, chicken, fish, shrimp, or even fruit bat meat.
Because I have been traveling abroad for many years, I usually only take a small taste of such "local specialties," but this time was an exception. When the "Laplap" was cooked, the banana leaves were opened, and the aroma was mouth-watering. The grandmother smiled and handed me a piece. I took a bite; it was sweet and delicate, and I immediately fell in love with this starchy delicacy, so I unhesitatingly took a pack and started eating. It is rare to find such food that comes entirely from nature, without any seasonings, yet is very clean, delicious, and suits my taste. No wonder Harry said that in the past, people in these tribes lived very long lives, reaching up to a hundred years old, and diet was the key. However, in recent years, due to contact with the outside world and the abandonment of their own food, their lifespans have actually shortened significantly.
Watching me eat with gusto, the young girl opposite kept looking at me curiously. I didn't know her name, so since I met her in a tribe on Tanna Island, let's call her "Tanna." Unlike the older and more reserved sisters in the tribe, Tanna was very lively, even climbing a tree to pick fruit for us. This girl of about 14 was as pure as a piece of jade and loved to smile, revealing a mouthful of white teeth; that smile was the most beautiful in the world. Through the lens, Tanna had a well-proportioned figure, healthy skin, and was a natural in front of the camera; no matter the angle, one could get a satisfying image.
After finishing the "Laplap," we followed the chief's wife into the woods. It is said that every evening, the men hold meetings in the "council hall" in the back, where women are not allowed to enter. The men of the tribe were almost naked, but fortunately, we were already used to it. The chief had a friendly face and let the tribesmen demonstrate how to make fire by drilling wood. Another activity belonging to the men was dancing—the war dance—stamping their feet hard on the ground while dancing. Tanna surprised me again; she actually had a loud, clear voice. The women were on the periphery, and their dance steps were strange, consisting of jumping in place continuously.
The children were the happiest. These bare-bottomed little ones surrounded my camera. When I leaned over to show the children the photos I had taken, Tanna took the opportunity to pick up a strand of my long hair, rubbed it for a long time, and even smelled it under her nose. For islanders who are born with full heads of fine curls, my straight hair was clearly very curious to her. It reminded me of the time in college when a foreign teacher brought her one-year-old granddaughter to class, and I couldn't help but reach out to touch those cute little golden curls.
Nature has endowed the people of Vanuatu with abundant produce. By the roadside, the children picked up some fruits and cracked them open with stones, revealing white kernels inside. Tanna handed me one, which was as fragrant and delicious as coconut meat. Harry said this is called Canarium indicum kernel, which is found everywhere in the woods, and locals can pick it up for a meal when they are hungry.
As we said goodbye, the chief's wife handed me a small branch, signaling that I could plant it by the roadside. I learned that it was actually a branch of the famous Tanna Island coffee tree. I heard that Tanna Island produces coffee, and it is quite famous; it seems that the world's better coffee is generally produced near the equator. "Tanna Coffee" is named after the place where the coffee beans are produced, Tanna Island. Mount Yasur is like a natural fertilizer factory, constantly spewing out mineral-rich volcanic ash, piling up thick layers of volcanic ash soil on the island. The people of Vanuatu will proudly tell you that "Tanna Coffee" is one of the world's recognized better coffees. Planting a coffee tree by hand has also become a way for local tribesmen to treat guests.
Looking at the scene of three generations living together, there is tradition, culture, and family affection here. Using the sky as a quilt and the earth as a mat, following the laws of nature, and absorbing the essence of heaven and earth, without the worries and anxieties brought by the material world, this is the "Melanesian" view of happiness represented by Vanuatu. Happiness does not depend solely on wealth, but also on a healthy body, harmonious social relationships, a rich spiritual and cultural life, on sharing and contributing, and on conforming to nature to obtain the greatest spiritual satisfaction with the least cost.