Hong Kong Immigration follows the stories of the Hong Kong people: “Hong Kong men, especially the younger generation, are increasingly pursuing fashion. Standard off-the-rack clothing can no longer meet their requirements. That is why we have seen many new tailor shops in the Central district of Hong Kong recently; after experiencing a downturn, bespoke clothing is beginning to see a slow revival,” says Manuel Cheung.
The Ascot Chang menswear bespoke shop, led by Manuel Cheung, is a leader in this industry. From his father’s humble beginnings in 1953, when he started the business in Hong Kong with just 10 U.S. dollars—operating out of a shop that doubled as their home—to the current presence of branches in Shanghai, Beijing, New York, Beverly Hills, and beyond, he has witnessed the ups and downs of the traditional tailoring craft.
“Starting in the 1990s, bespoke clothing began to decline because many major European and American brands entered the Hong Kong market. Most men preferred the convenience of buying ready-made clothes, and the bespoke market took a significant hit,” says Cheung. “But we persevered with this craft because there are still people with unique physical builds, or those with higher standards, who prefer bespoke tailoring.”
Manuel Cheung is the second-generation successor. He originally studied computer science and mathematics at university, a field completely unrelated to bespoke clothing. However, due to his father’s circumstances, he grew to love the trade traditionally known as 'tailoring.' Before he graduated, his father suffered a sudden heart attack while working. Although he later recovered, his health was much weaker than before, and he could no longer maintain his previous workload, so his father asked him to come and help out.
When asked whether he felt hesitant or struggled with the transition given that his university major had little connection to bespoke tailoring, Cheung smiled and said, “Young people back then were different from those today. My generation was more obedient. For my father’s sake, it was natural to just try it out. But we agreed that I would work for two years to see if I was capable of the job.”
Knowing nothing about tailoring or bespoke garments, Manuel Cheung started as a bottom-level apprentice, learning the basic steps, then helping customers measure at the shop, and learning sales. Once he became familiar with the business, he began corresponding with overseas clients. During this process, he realized that his father had built an excellent reputation; many foreign clients wrote letters expressing their gratitude, praising the clothes for their fit and aesthetic.
“We would also study clothes custom-made abroad and discovered that our craftsmanship was not inferior—in fact, at times, we felt it was even better than theirs. From then on, I liked this craft more and more and became increasingly invested in it.”
With outstanding craftsmanship, Ascot Chang has weathered 60 years of challenges. Many celebrities have been among their clientele, ranging from the early days of former U.S. President George H.W. Bush and Richard Nixon, to more recent stylish figures like Leonardo DiCaprio and Andy Lau, all of whom have been drawn by their craftsmanship.
Regarding these major figures, Manuel Cheung vividly recalls the mysterious customer, former U.S. President George H.W. Bush. It was 1985, and Bush was visiting Beijing and passing through Hong Kong for a day; Cheung and his uncle measured him for a custom garment. “I only found out later that he was the U.S. Vice President at the time. Ever since then, he has been our client. He loved Swiss-made blue fabrics and white styles, and would buy six shirts each time.”
Having seen many famous figures and political dignitaries, Manuel Cheung admits with a laugh that he still gets nervous when meeting important people. He says: “Not long ago, I also made clothes for a president. Although it wasn't a very large country, the security screening when I went to measure him was very strict, with layer upon layer of checkpoints. It was quite nerve-wracking.”
From the traditional tailoring of the past to today's high-end bespoke garments, Manuel Cheung believes the 1960s and 70s were the golden age for Hong Kong, with a decline starting in the 90s. However, as the younger generation’s requirements for clothing grow higher, the bespoke industry has recently begun a gradual revival in Hong Kong. Nevertheless, while demand is rising, Hong Kong lacks talent in this field.
“Recruiting tailors is indeed difficult, especially for suit makers, because the technical requirements for suit making are high. In fact, there are already two schools in the UK that offer tailoring courses, allowing students to practice and cultivate their skills. Tailoring is different from fashion; it focuses more on craftsmanship. When you master a craft to the extreme, you can become a master tailor. Perhaps traditional views suggest that tailoring work is mediocre, but just like a chef, if you are highly skilled and become the head chef of a famous restaurant, that is a different story. I hope the younger generation in Hong Kong can have more opportunities to get in touch with this industry. After all, you have to understand it to be able to fall in love with it.”