Immigrating to Spain, life will never be the same. The passionate flamenco, the brave matadors, the towering Pyrenees, and the streets bathed in brilliant sunshine create a Spain that is bold, vibrant, and vivid. Yet, this boldness is only the surface of Spain. As one of the countries with the most World Heritage sites, it possesses countless brilliant cultures inherited from a long and profound history. Among them is Granada—the city of the crystal pomegranate at the base of the Spanish coat of arms, which became famous overnight thanks to the book "Tales of the Alhambra" by the American author Washington Irving.
Despite the bloody political changes throughout history, the city of Granada has preserved the exquisite Alhambra, which captivates countless tourists. Strolling through the streets and alleys of this small city with their rich Arabic flair, bathing in the brilliant Andalusian sunshine, and admiring the vibrant flowers is a fascinating experience everywhere you turn.
I. Memories of the Alhambra
During the Middle Ages, the Moors arrived from North Africa and occupied most of the territory on the Iberian Peninsula, only to retreat step by step centuries later. Granada was the last royal city ruled by the Moors, and the Alhambra was their final palace.
The name Alhambra means "The Red One" in Arabic, referring to the red sandstone used for its outer walls, with the Court of the Lions being particularly famous. The courtyard is filled with exquisite Arabic-style carvings, and the intricate, inlaid geometric patterns are dazzling, making it an immortal masterpiece of Arabic architecture. The gardens are also one of the prides of the Alhambra; the clear blue sky makes the clusters of flowers appear exceptionally vibrant, and even the garden layout follows geometric constructions, offering a unique aesthetic pleasure.
This royal palace is arguably one of the most difficult attractions in the world to book tickets for. Only about 6,000 visitors are allowed to visit the core part, the Court of the Lions, each day. Tickets are hard to come by, and during the peak tourist season, they must be booked two months in advance. Therefore, even on colder winter days, you can see tourists from all over the world lining up as early as five or six o'clock to buy tickets. The exquisite beauty within is absolutely worth every traveler booking months in advance.
For guitar enthusiasts, the Alhambra is a symbol with additional significance. Spain is the birthplace of the classical guitar, and the piece "Recuerdos de la Alhambra" (Memories of the Alhambra), composed by the Spanish guitar master Francisco Tárrega, is famous for its beautiful melody and extreme difficulty, ranking alongside "Romance de Amor" as one of the most iconic guitar masterpieces. It is said that Tárrega visited the Alhambra in the evening and was so amazed by the beauty before him that he wrote this piece to express the melancholy of the Moors looking back at their homeland, unable to return.
II. Encountering a Dreamy Sunset in Albaicín
Albaicín is another World Heritage site that Granada is proud of, echoing the Alhambra across the valley. On one side is the rich, exotic Arabic residential area, and on the other is the once-glorious Moorish palace; they serve as the best vantage points for each other.
The Arabic-style houses are mostly white, often decorated with beautifully patterned plates on the walls, and courtyards are planted with flowers, making every household feel like a charming garden. Walking up the steps through the narrow and steep alleys of Albaicín, the Mirador de San Nicolás located at the top of the hill is the best place to view the Alhambra.
Accompanied by the pleasant guitar sounds of street performers, we stared at the Alhambra from the Mirador de San Nicolás for two hours, then reluctantly headed down the hill to a highly-rated paella restaurant. The alleys of Albaicín are intricate and complex; we were walking randomly based on a general direction when we happened to pass a small path. Glancing to the side, we witnessed a scene we would never forget.
From where we stood, the entire city of Granada was in full view. The afterglow of the sunset pierced through the thick clouds, and a graceful beam of light hit the dome of a Baroque-style church in the distance. Every passerby held their breath, staring at the beautiful scenery before them, motionless. Facing such a scene, any traveler would feel excited and grateful for their luck.
This is the beauty of independent travel. Albaicín has so many maze-like alleys, and we happened to wander into this path that overlooks Granada at just this moment. Not a moment too early, not a moment too late—everything was just right. It is these inexplicable, wonderful encounters during travel that form the brightest pearls in the long river of life's memories.
III. The Midnight Ancient City Like "One Thousand and One Nights"
Returning to the Alhambra at night, the palace was quiet and serene, as beautiful and moving as a fairy tale. Strolling through the Court of the Lions, the exquisite geometric patterns on the walls and colonnades appeared even more magnificent in the dim light, making one marvel again that the Moors of centuries ago seemed to be masters of geometry. Simple shapes were interpreted by them into infinite variations, creating such complex and exquisite courtyards that even modern people find it difficult to surpass.
In the silent courtyard, the colonnades covered with exquisite plaster relief patterns were perfectly reflected in the pool water. The reflections swayed with the wind, and the orange-red light was like a beautiful dream, as if we were immersed in the ancient legends of "One Thousand and One Nights." A touch of sadness welled up in my heart; this treasure, meticulously carved by the Moors, had long since become an ideal dreamland to which they could never return.
It was nearly midnight when we finished touring the Court of the Lions. We sat on the old city walls from hundreds of years ago, chatting idly. The wind on the Iberian Peninsula was dry and cool. Looking at the distant Albaicín, the starlit lights were quiet and peaceful. Playing a track of "Memories of the Alhambra," the pearl-like flowing guitar sounds were mournful and heart-wrenching—that was the longing of the Moors who had a home they could not return to, and it was just like us, who longed to hold onto this scene but could only gaze at it in vain.