Spain Migration Insight Spanish Immigration Guide: To many, the true capital of Spain is not Madrid, but Toledo.
It is difficult to count how many monarchs have held their court in Toledo, where changes in power have come and gone like the seasons. Since its occupation by the Romans in 192 BC, the Visigoths, the Moors, and the Kingdom of Castile have all established it as their capital, until the 16th century, when the reigning king decided to move the capital to Madrid, and Toledo’s historical splendor gradually began to fade.
Toledo is a stone city that feels like a portal to another time. Even though the city is surrounded by modern asphalt roads, inside the walls remain cobblestone streets with centuries of history. All the ancient architecture is perfectly preserved, and Christianity, Judaism, and Islam coexist here in peace. Walking through the streets and alleys of Toledo, one feels as though they are catching the breeze of a thousand years ago. One cannot help but sigh: if you have not been to Toledo, you do not truly know Spain.
A Stone City of the Cold Weapon Era
In Toledo, one thing you will inevitably do is lose your way. In the past, the builders designed the streets to be a crisscrossing maze to fend off invaders. Even with a map, it is difficult to find your bearings, so anyone walking in Toledo will likely lose their sense of direction. You may often find yourself unexpectedly turning into a quiet alley, devoid of pedestrians, with historical, dusty-yellow stone walls on both sides, as if you have returned to the era of cold weapons.
It is common to see nuns in Toledo. These sisters in white are not as rigid as one might traditionally imagine. Many elderly nuns wear matching leather shoes and handbags, and even don sunglasses, appearing quite fashionable. The convent pastries here are also very famous; originally made by the nuns, they have now gained significant popularity, allowing the production to scale up while retaining the signature of the convent and creating cute, nun-shaped pastries.
The Cathedral of Toledo is one of the three major cathedrals in Spain. It has an extremely long history, and since Toledo was once the capital of Spain, this cathedral can be considered the center of the country's faith. The most interesting aspect of the Toledo Cathedral lies in its two towers: one is a Gothic spire, and the other is a Baroque dome. It is said that when one tower’s foundation became unstable and collapsed, it could only be rebuilt as a shorter Baroque dome, resulting in its present appearance. Yet, this asymmetry does not in the least diminish the exquisite beauty of the Toledo Cathedral.
Strolling through Toledo, this stone city is captivating and leaves one filled with gratitude. Imagine if even one modern building were to be built in place of an ancient one in the city, or if the dilapidated cobblestone roads were replaced with asphalt, this perfect tableau would be shattered. Fortunately, such things have not come to pass. Because of its historical background, Toledo is known for the production of cold weapons, and many souvenir shops sell swords and shields, which often draw the attention of many male tourists.
Toledo and the Tagus River
The Mirador del Valle is the best place to overlook Toledo and a must-visit for every traveler to the city. As we drove uphill, long before we reached the observation deck, we were already gasping in surprise at the beautiful scenery outside the window.
The winding Tagus River encircles the hillside city of Toledo, and the setting sun drapes the city in a subtle, amber glow. Rows of exquisite buildings appear like a mirage before our eyes, causing us to mindlessly click our shutters again and again, unable to fully record the beauty of the scene before us.
From Toledo to Madrid, this has been the developmental trajectory of most European countries. Human beings flourish because of water, and by settling and multiplying here, communities emerged, followed by towns and cities. The designation of Toledo as the capital was not accidental but a historical necessity. Much like the Alhambra in Granada or the Alcázar in Segovia, an excellent geographical position was the top priority for people choosing a capital a thousand years ago.
During the era of cold weapons, capitals were often chosen for their impregnable terrain. Toledo is surrounded on three sides by the Tagus River, with mountains on the other side, and ingress and egress were only possible through bridges. The steep canyons made Toledo, perched on the cliffs, even more fortress-like. With the addition of the towering northern walls, it truly possessed the air of “a position so strong, one man could hold off a thousand.”
Yet, such a geographical location inevitably meant limited space and growth potential. As the flames of war gradually died out, the economy grew, and the population increased, the eventual moving of the capital a thousand years later was only natural.
Our ancestors traveled from the sea to the land, and then from the mountains to the plains; for thousands of years, we have migrated in this way. The small town of Madrid was like Cinderella finding her glass slipper, suddenly becoming the capital of Spain. And within a mere few hundred years, the city’s history allowed for easier planning and development, making it a unique and modern new capital for Spain.
In 1561, Philip II relocated the capital to Madrid, and Toledo subsequently declined. However, this gem of history and culture has continued to shine through the ages. It has not been ravaged or remodeled beyond recognition by commercialization. Like a dream from the past, it allows every visitor to experience the history and glory of Spain. Inscribed on the ancient walls inside the Puerta de Bisagra are two lines by Cervantes: “Toledo is the pride of Spain, and the city of light.” How true those words are.